SonexBuilders.net

It is OK to start Lycoming and TCM Continental engines without pre-heat in temperatures as low as 32 degrees or high 20s F. Multi-weight oils help the starter, I prefer Phillips 20W50. I use spray can starting fluid that smells like ether for starting difficult to start small engines and my boat with a V-8 and carburetor for the first start in the season when the carburetor is dry of fuel. We also used that spray starting fluid to start diesel bus engines in the winter in northern Ohio. Perhaps you could spray some of that in the intake and then start that Jabiru 3300 in cold weather, at or above high 20s or freezing temperatures. Below freezing or below the high 20s, pre-heat is recommended. Using this procedure, I recommend starting at idle throttle settings, you do not want the engine going to a higher RPM immediately upon starting with the cold, thicker oil not yet having circulated throughout the engine. The engine will undoubtedly start immediately if any of that starting fluid get to the cylinders.

and it starts normally.

No excess internal wear and tear.

Immediate oil pressure.

Engine oil warms right up for mag check and fly.

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Use he heater if the temp is 20F or lower and usually at about 25F or lower. No point in trashing stuff unnecessarily.
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Do a thorough cold weather preflight while waiting for the heater to do its thing. Extra attention to making sure there are no frozen droplets of water restricting flying surfaces and controls. Make sure the empennage is not filled with blown snow.

I dress for the conditions outside the aircraft and also carry a survival kit (6.5lb) - Sleeping Bag, Plastic Bag to put sleeping bag in, extra hats, scarves and gloves. First aid kit for simple fractures and open wound. Pencil and paper to communicate in case you can't speak.

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My 2c

Back in my Sonerai days I simply connected some flex dryer vent tubing to the lower cabin vent heater in my S-10 pickup...into a Y fitting then into the intake openings of the cowl. Worked great.

Downside no cabin heat in the truck while you wait...

peter

The AeroInjector adds to the problem when starting a cold engine. The fuel is not sprayed through a jet into a venturi where the air is accelerated, like in a carburetor. It is dribbled into the air stream and then runs up the inside walls of the intake system to the cylinders. I don't believe it begins to atomize until the manifold gets hot. My engine, Aerovee, won't run less than 1500 rpm until the oil temp gets over 100. During start, the throttle has to be open a little father than normal to simulate a choked condition and provide a little excess fuel until the temps come up. I imagine the intake manifold temp pretty much parallels the oil temp. That's why I like to have the engine heater on 24/7. When I turn on the EFIS the cyl. head temp and the oil temp are the same. Usually 70 to 80 degrees and the air in the engine hasn't gone through dew point every day since the last flight. Even my old Cessna had to be primed a couple of times on a cold day.

builderflyer wrote:If the 40s are as cold as your winter temps get then what has worked for me is to first utilize Aeroshell 15w50 oil year round and second to carefully direct hot air from a heat gun into the cowling outlets for a few minutes before attempting to start. If you have an older 3300 like mine (with the black starter motor ) then you'll always be at a disadvantage for starting, cold or hot. I'm not into using a lithium battery and the Odyssey battery I've used for years has been marginal in its cranking power. So in the past year I've been using a Deka battery (ouch, it's heavy) and it's increased cranking power has more than offset the additional weight penalty.

Hope this helps,

Art,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sonex taildragger #95,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Jabiru 3300 #261

My starter is grey / silver in color.

The battery in my plane is also undersized I believe. It is a 625 Odyssey. According to their website, the 625 is suitable for 2 stroke jet skis, not even 4 stroke jet skis, so starting a cold 3.3 liter six cylinder is really too much to ask of it. I probably should put a bigger battery on it, but not sure how that will effect the weight and balance, or if there is even room for a bigger battery between the firewall and motor mount.

tx_swordguy wrote:https://katsblockheater.com/block-heaters/all/engine-oil-pad-heater-250 I have the 4x5 on my jab 3300. just clean the side of the oil pan real well (i used acetone and let it dry real well) stick it on and press all the pad down well. Then put some hi-temp silicone around the edges and go. I have had mine on for a yr no propblems, others 4+ yrs no problems. after a 30ish degree night and getting to the airport around 10-11 I plug it in first thing, do my preflight (20 min or so) the oil will routinely read 80 degrees at start up. It will then cool off a couple of degrees (mid 70s) until the engine is warmed up. I like it, it works for me and no trouble starting.
Mark
oh and ps, you can trim the edge but be very careful or you will cut the wires that heat the unit. I would not trim more than 1/8 inch or so off the edge if needed.

Your telling me that with the plane being in the hangar in 30 degree temps all night, you show up in the morning and plug in that heating pad, and within 20 minutes it has your oil at 80 degrees?

Bryan Cotton wrote:In the PA28R180 I used to fly, we would put a 100W trouble light underneath. Foam bird blockers in the inlets, and a blanket on top. Ran it 24/7. Made a difference.

There just doesn't seem to be any room to get a light into the cowling. There would have been room on the underside where the exhaust comes out on each side, but someone before me installed metal pieces to the fiberglass that close off those holes quite tightly to the exhaust.

Essentially, I have the openings in the front, one on each side in front of the cylinders.... and another one under the prop about where the oil sump is... And then two exit holes around each exhaust stack, and those holes are about the size of a tennis ball can, with the exhaust pipe coming down in the middle of them.

I actually wonder if there shouldn't be a bigger opening on the bottom as I can see my firewall behind the rubber pedals buckling and being flexed in flight from all the air pressure in the cowling

[quote="Onex107"]The AeroInjector adds to the problem when starting a cold engine. My engine, Aerovee, won't run less than 1500 rpm until the oil temp gets over 100. During start, the throttle has to be open a little father than normal to simulate a choked condition and provide a little excess fuel until the temps come up.

Sounds to me that the Aeroinjector is set up to be too lean at idle. Back when Aeroconversions was supplying brass needles for the Aerocarb, the easy solution was to "shave" off a couple of thousands of the needle at the idle location. This assumes that the proper mixture had been achieved at the WOT position. Not as easily accomplished with the stainless steel needles supplied with the Aeroinjector, but your starting problem would likely disappear with a richer mixture at idle. Just my opinion.

Art,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sonex taildragger #95,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Jabiru 3300 #261

Gyro Ron,
Yes what I am telling you is over night temps mid thirties . Temp at 10 am about 40 and 20 min with of preflight while on the heater gets indicated oil temp up to about 80 . Once started oil temp falls to about 74ish as it circulates across cold engine but engine heats it back up fairly quickly. The heater will burn your fingers if you put your hand on it just like if you grabbed a heat lamp while it is on. It’s dumping 250-300 watts directly on the oil sump
Mark

So Bryan,

Where do I get contraband 100W incandescent light bulbs these days. The LEDs don't even put out enough heat to keep themselves warm.