SonexBuilders.net

Greetings!

Just a note about how I'll be getting access to the instrument panel wiring. I have added two inspection plates to the glare shield.
For strength, they require a frame and covers. For simplicity, I purchased two RV-10 baggage compartment access plates from Van's Aircraft. I did squeeze the rivets to attach the frames and used Torx screws to attach the plates (instead of the counter sunk screws that come with it). I believe this looks better.

The glare shield will be painted flat dark grey.

How do they look?

As an idiot who has since 2005 been irritating himself green about not having provided any access for anything behind the panel, I´m hardly in a position to offer qualified comment. Still, I´m not convinced this solution will do much good. Of course; anything is much better than nothing! But it appears that we are looking at the glareshield for a Sonex B ? In that case- would not your windscreen be in the way every time you would need to get in there? In that case the windscreen would have to come off too! I have come to the conclusion that some solution where part of the panel is hinged at the bottom so that it could be tilted backwards with gauges and all, preferably with some of the glareshield/panel `roof` coming with it. I imagine that should ease up things considerably?

Not there in my build yet, but I'm thinking something that slides out and pivots down to provide easy access. Currently looking at a t-slot solution.
For example a 1.00" X 1.00" T-slot rail with 4 slots weights 0.509 lbs per linear feet. A single slit 1" x 1/2 " single slot rail weighs in a 1/4 lb per linear foot. There are all sorts of options for fasteners and connectors. The fasteners will slide in the rail until you tighten them up. Cables and wires will need to be lengthened to accommodate the slide out distance. Longer cables mean more opportunity for signal noise. Here is a a you tube video showing a cube with sliding drawer for an idea on how it might work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4IYXQp0SlU

I made the entire center section removable, with 4 short piano hinge sections. I can remove the whole center section in about 10 seconds. The 6 screws I originally installed on the two ends, I never ended up needing or using, so I made a new center section later, with just the 4 hinges.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 450&row=80
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 561&row=79
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 016&row=72
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 244&row=66
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 022&row=35

And the center section is so easy to make, if you make an instrument change, you just make a new center section. I've done that once.

You can also see the panel in my video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lbgek8-X14o
At 8 min 53 sec.
And 10 min 15 sec.

mike.smith wrote:I made the entire center section removable, with 4 short piano hinge sections. I can remove the whole center section in about 10 seconds. The 6 screws I originally installed on the two ends, I never ended up needing or using, so I made a new center section later, with just the 4 hinges.

You are killing me here. Although I was warned. I wish I heeded. This is a nice installation!

Dave, anything is better than nothing. I have nothing. Sucks to work on.

I hate rivnuts, but I used them to hold my panel in. I couldn't fit nut plates on the flanges at the radius on the flange for the glare shield for the b-model (I'm not sure this would be the case on a legacy). Definitely not as easy as the hinges, but I can drop the panel for access. Obviously once it is wired I will be limited in how far I can move it, but I plan to leave enough slack in the harness to gain access to anything I need.